A Vietnamese ingredient
Ngọc Linh ginseng
in the broth.
Our family keeps a ginseng forest in Kon Tum, high on the Ngọc Linh range. So when it came time to open a phở shop, putting ginseng in the broth was barely a decision.
The hidden medicine plant
Ngọc Linh ginseng grows in exactly one place on earth, the Ngọc Linh range. The Xơ Đăng people who live below those peaks knew it long before it had a botanical name, and they called it cây thuốc giấu — the hidden medicine plant. Hidden in the old forest, and kept hidden from outsiders.
It is not grown in rows out in the sun. It sits under the forest canopy in damp leaf litter, and it cannot be lifted until it is at least ten years old. Growing it has more in common with keeping a forest than with farming. The plant takes its time, and the grower's only real job is to wait.
Our family's forest
The family's plantation trades as Sâm Ngọc Linh Kontum K5. The province allocated more than 7,000 hectares of forest for planting under the canopy; over 600 hectares are planted so far, and around 200 of those are past ten years old and now in harvest. For more than twenty years the work the family has been most stubborn about is not expanding the area, it is holding on to the original seed stock.
The root in our stockpot does not come through a wholesale market. It comes down from the forest through family hands, which is why we can tell you which root is in the pot.
When it goes in
The dried root goes in at the start and simmers with the beef bones for the whole batch, rather than being dropped in near the end for the smell of it. Only a long simmer gets the flavour down into the broth instead of leaving it sitting on top like an added scent.
Every batch, without exception. Not just the signature dish — every pot of broth at Phở ’S has ginseng in it.
We choose Ngọc Linh ginseng for its flavour, and for the qualities Vietnamese people have long valued in it.
What a pot without it would lose
If you want to know what the ginseng does, picture the pot without it. Three things would go:
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A sweetness that stays
It sits on the tongue a while after the spoonful, and it is not the sweetness bones give you.
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Its own smell
You catch it the moment the lid comes off, before anyone tells you what is in the pot.
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Amber broth
The clear gold in the bowl is what the root gives up over a long simmer. Nothing is added for colour.
The family's own products
From the same forest, the family also makes tea, honey and bird's nest drinks under the Sâm Ngọc Linh Kontum K5 name. Orders are taken by phone, and the product pages are in Vietnamese.
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TPBVSK K5 Trà Sâm Ngọc Linh
639.000₫
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TPBS K5 Sâm Ngọc Linh Mật Ong
3.330.000₫
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Tổ Yến Sâm Ngọc Linh
from 288.000₫
Any bowl will show you
The ginseng is in every pot of broth, so any bowl of soup phở will show you what it does. If you want the one the family fusses over most, order the Nourishing Phở, served in heat-holding porcelain.